I grew up in a suburb of Chicago called Wilmette, where the L train ends its run north from the city. Three blocks from our house was Marie’s Restaurant, a little greasy spoon across the street from the train station.
Marie’s was run by a German immigrant couple, Adam and Marie, who talked with thick accents and worked from about 4 a.m.—when Adam arrived to make doughnuts—to 7 or 8 p.m., when they closed. The place had more counter than table seating, all of it yellowed Formica.
Marie’s was the hub of the neighborhood and resolutely old-fashioned. It cut fries from fresh potatoes (today they call that “hand-cut”), the soft drinks were mixed from syrup and soda water, and Adam formed burgers in his hands from fresh ground beef. He was the only person I knew who shared my name for my entire childhood.
The place jumped at breakfast and lunchtime, but I usually arrived after school, around 3 or 3:30, when Central Elementary or Howard Junior High let out. Jim from Demas Fine Foods would be sitting there, Johnny the barber was smoking, or asleep, a huge woman with a black wig drank milk shakes, one of the guys from Shawnee Service in greasy overalls nursed coffee, and a couple of the CTA motormen idled between runs of the Evanston Express.
There was a Zenith TV high up in the corner, and every afternoon it was tuned to WGN. The Cubs played eighty-one home day games, at 1:15 p.m. Jack Brickhouse (Hey, hey) did the play-by-play.
I started following the Cubs in 1970 at age six, the year after their historic collapse of 1969. The seventies were lean times at Wrigley Field; the Cubs were bad, or worse. A seat in the bleachers—scalped today for $150—could be had two minutes before game time for $3 from the ticket window.
I didn’t start ditching school for the ballpark until high school, so usually I would be at Marie’s, watching the end of games after school with Brian Kelly or by myself with a plate of soggy fries sided by little paper cups of ketchup. These were my first ventures into independence—my money, my fries, my people, my Cubs. Frosted with personal nostalgia, those grim years of sporting malaise seem preferable to today’s wall-to-wall yuppie scene at sold-out Wrigley.
The common denominator, though, is failure. The Cubs were eliminated from the playoffs over the weekend by the Arizona Diamondbacks—which play in a plastic ballpark (that feels like Block E) with a hot tub in the outfield. The Cubs did not win a game.
Back in the day, during May or June, in the waning innings of a particularly ugly losing streak, Adam would pronounce, “Cubbie not going anywhere this year.” The Cubs, to most Chicagoans, are the Cubbies—a diminutive evoking a naïve little bear getting kicked around by Cardinals, Pirates, and a big Red machine. Cubbie, in fact, had not gone anywhere for many years, their last World Series victory being 1908. One of these years, the Cubs will win it all, and many of us will momentarily rejoice. But after that day it will probably never be the same.
Winning is easy. I’ve lived and cheered through two Twins championships, six playoff runs, Cy Young MVP, and batting championship seasons, and they don’t collectively equal what I learned as a kid in Chicago: That the brass ring will inevitably elude, so you find joy in small moments.
You learned to appreciate a beautiful old ballpark, ivy clinging to its walls, the magnificence of a sunny day, a great play by Ron Santo at third, an Oscar Mayer Smokie Link fresh from the griddle with French’s mustard, or, if you missed the game, a blue light shining above the scoreboard in the darkness. You watched for it as you passed by Addison Street on the L: Blue meant smiles all around, white meant back to the newspaper.
Baseball is the most evocative sport because it is so local, so personal. The ballparks are all different, a city’s baseball culture uniquely its own. The 162-game season is six months long, a marathon to which the playoffs are merely a short coda. Even the worst teams win sixty to eighty games, meaning there is joy and wild abandon amidst all the failure.
Today, I am a Twins fan, and proudly so. I have lived in Minnesota longer than in Chicago. But a huge piece of my history and a very soft spot in my heart remains in the land of the Cubbie. I knew them not as a yuppie phenomenon now reviled by many through overexposure on cable TV, but as the guys who perpetually broke our hearts. As this year’s Cubs bowed out over the weekend, I remembered one of the CTA motormen, who, after a particularly dispiriting loss, bemoaned, “These motherf**kers are going to do this to us for 100 years.”
Adam and Marie left the restaurant the same day we moved out of our house in 1985. My mom and I wandered in for the first time in months for a nostalgic burger as they trained-in the new owners, shocked by the synchronicity. I wonder if Adam will be around or aware next October, when the motorman’s prophecy becomes historical fact.
Jews have a prayer that reaffirms their faith in one god, uttered at every religious service. As a child, I remember the rabbi referring to it as “The watchword of our faith.”
To the Cubs fan, whether at Clark and Addison Streets or here among the diaspora, that watchword is wait till next year. It always comes, but it doesn’t either, which is fine with me.
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